Right here, in chronological order, are six exhibits to recollect from a busy week of back-to-back occasions.
Fendi
The most effective exhibits at London Vogue Week, from Burberry to Simone Rocha
The most effective exhibits at London Vogue Week, from Burberry to Simone Rocha
“Utilitarian” and “extravagant” have been the 2 adjectives Jones used to explain the autumn/winter 2024 vary. He checked out Fendi’s archives from 1984 and located a parallel with what was occurring in London on the time: the Blitz Children, the New Romantics and workwear.
![A dress with a print of Roman statuary at Fendi autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AFP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/04bb5145-69cd-41b8-bb24-3f07190df417_52ae140e.jpg)
![A top with a print of Roman statuary at Fendi autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AFP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/de85b8e8-8612-4b6c-a44c-d91c3dc2ea03_52ae140e.jpg)
Jones has proven prior to now that he can ship some breathtaking vogue; his Fendi couture collections have included some spectacular appears. He simply must have extra enjoyable with ready-to-wear similar to his counterpart Silvia does with menswear and equipment. There’s a purpose one of many Fs within the double Fendi emblem stands for “enjoyable”.
Max Mara
![A look from Max Mara autumn/winter 2024 show in Milan. Photo: AFP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/73cf6065-f8f3-4e21-a121-3a1a6627232c_52ae140e.jpg)
Max Mara by no means fails to ship what it’s finest at: fantastically made daywear separates and long-lasting outerwear that stand the check of time. Prime quality textiles and nice match are on the coronary heart of the label’s ready-to-wear, which defies short-lived traits and caters to ladies who aren’t flaky vogue victims.
For autumn/winter 2024, the model’s artistic director Ian Griffiths seemed on the oeuvre of Belle Époque French author, journalist, screenwriter and someday performer Colette, the creator of Gigi. The novella tells the story of a younger Parisian woman pursuing a profession as a courtesan, and has seen movie and musical variations because it was revealed in 1944. Within the present notes, Griffiths described Colette as “refined, clever and sexually liberated” – all qualities that he additionally sees within the Max Mara girl.
Essentially the most memorable exhibits at New York Vogue Week 2024, from Coach to Tory Burch
Essentially the most memorable exhibits at New York Vogue Week 2024, from Coach to Tory Burch
The reference to Colette, nonetheless, was extra an angle reasonably than an apparent homage, as the gathering was per the fashionable and spare method to design that Max Mara has at all times been recognized for. There’s a purpose why ladies who wish to look properly put collectively and nonetheless show a sure sense of individuality depend on the Italian label.
A gray model of the model’s Teddy Bear coat, one of many label’s bestsellers and a staple in many ladies’s wardrobes, made an look on the present, which additionally featured some excellent knitwear – a cable-knit gown, additionally in gray, was a winner – and mannish tailoring, impressed by Colette’s behavior of sporting males’s garments.
![A grey cable-knit sweater dress at Max Mara autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AFP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/4f8a2ea5-41db-4e62-837a-c6fd01c6f980_52ae140e.jpg)
Small gestures resembling the location of pockets on the again of a gown, or the best way a camel skirt was tied on the aspect nearly like a sarong, have been there to provide the garments simply the correct quantity of element with out taking away from the no-nonsense stylish aesthetic of the at all times dependable model.
Prada
![The finale at Prada autumn/winter 2024 in Milan during fashion week. Photo: Prada](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/98f5dcd0-a7d2-4eac-81f9-dd0e5c633f62_a18f5966.jpg)
Miuccia Prada’s collections have that uncommon high quality: they make you suppose, but additionally wish to purchase. Whereas her exhibits are at all times directional and affect loads of different designers, she doesn’t merely take pleasure in her flights of fancy. Actuality seeps in too because the designer at all times retains in thoughts what individuals out on this planet truly wish to put on.
In 2020, she employed Belgian designer Raf Simons as her co-creative director and, season after season, his impression turns into increasingly seen, though the collections nonetheless retain their quintessential Prada DNA.
In accordance with Prada’s usually cryptic present notes, for autumn/winter 2024, the designers seemed to historical past and the way garments from completely different areas may be “recontextualized” to provide rise to new concepts. Extra particularly, they talked about “fragments of historical past”.
![Bows on a dress at Prada autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AFP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/55fad263-c044-469b-afb5-38f5d74bd394_6391ff8c.jpg)
Appears to be like ranged from wardrobe staples resembling biker jackets, bomber jackets and knits to elongated attire embellished with bows.
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Solely Prada, nonetheless, could make bows look removed from fairly: they appeared nearly undone on a few attire, giving the items an unfinished look that harks again to a few of Prada’s most celebrated collections and can delight diehard followers. Anticipate to see these attire on loads of celebrities and journal covers.
![A feathered hat at Prada autumn/winter 2024. Photo: EPA-EFE](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/3495ddaa-6d41-480f-b5f6-b231ef206cb9_b41403b1.jpg)
Gucci
![Gucci’s signature oxblood red returned for autumn/winter 2024. Photo: Reuters](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/d560d803-293f-4049-9768-fc9e252d05ca_e29e6ee3.jpg)
![A sequin-embellished coat paired with riding boots at Gucci autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/eba306ec-4359-4d26-96f3-28309255d2f5_9a08aa95.jpg)
This season’s present, due to this fact, felt just like the debut that by no means was. De Sarno, who joined Gucci final 12 months after a protracted stint at Valentino, used his second outing as a method to evolve his imaginative and prescient of the Gucci girl by constructing upon the muse of his first present.
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Making waves: surfer woman vogue is again – from Chanel to Miu Miu
The silhouette he debuted in September – a pointy jacket or coat paired with shorts or miniskirts – returned for autumn/winter 2024, as did Rosso Ancora, the oxblood crimson that de Sarno launched for spring/summer season and has already turn into a beloved signature.
![A dress from Gucci autumn/winter 2024 during Milan Fashion Week. Photo: Reuters](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/e87592f4-8554-4140-99ab-ee5358c3ec39_784591cc.jpg)
This time round, gildings have been aplenty, from sequins to lavish embroidery utilized to coats and night put on. Most appears, together with some fabulous party-ready attire, have been paired with equestrian boots – a nod to Gucci’s horse using heritage. It was a easy styling gesture that made the gathering related to what younger women wish to put on immediately, one thing that De Sarno is clearly specializing in as he builds a brand new id for the Italian powerhouse model.
Ferragamo
![Sharp and broad-shouldered outerwear at Ferragamo autumn/winter 2024. Photo: Reuters](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/16cd34eb-23fd-4422-b48a-167b49802988_44127802.jpg)
The Florence-based home is at the start a footwear label – founder Salvatore Ferragamo was often called the “shoemaker to the celebs” – which is why the garments was nearly an adjunct to the bestselling sneakers, luggage and small leather-based items that also drive the enterprise.
Lately, nonetheless, Ferragamo has began to shine the highlight on its ready-to-wear, particularly because the arrival of British designer Maximilian Davis in 2022.
Very like De Sarno at Gucci and different designers at present working in Milan, Davis, who was in his mid-20s when he joined the label, is attuned to the best way younger aspiring cool women gown as of late, and needs to cater to them together with his choices.
![A feather-embellished dress at Ferragamo autumn/winter 2024. Photo: Reuters](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/50917246-58ee-4738-93b0-cf33f1ddc24b_bd2ebd8f.jpg)
He’s additionally a fan of crimson, a color that was a key aspect of his first present. A smattering of appears within the autumn/winter 2024 assortment got here in that fiery hue, however the present opened with a sequence of sharply tailor-made appears in navy inexperienced and likewise featured sheer, diaphanous attire that have been a terrific counterpoint to the outerwear.
![Fiery red, a favourite of designer Maximilian Davis, at Ferragamo autumn/winter 2024. Photo: Reuters](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/12c33f99-82b9-4ae5-bfa6-1e350a3a4105_de86c82e.jpg)
These attire – a few of them feather embellished – harked again to the “dropped waists, fluid materials and raised hems” of 20s vogue, because the present notes described, whereas the uniforms of that very same decade have been behind the broad-shouldered coats and jackets that the designer noticed as a type of “safety”.
Bottega Veneta
![Lots of texture at Bottega Veneta autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/dc10a53a-4265-47fb-8446-61a4d84d8236_f81b2850.jpg)
French designer Matthieu Blazy was second in command when he was named Bottega Veneta’s artistic director after the departure of his former boss, Daniel Lee, again in 2021.
A veteran of manufacturers resembling Raf Simons, Margiela and Celine, Blazy has made Bottega Veneta much more fascinating than his predecessor did, constructing a powerful ready-to-wear enterprise at a model that for years primarily relied on its woven-leather purses for many of its gross sales.
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For the autumn/winter 2024 present, Blazy turned a warehouse in an artsy space of Milan right into a desert panorama stuffed with cactus-shaped gentle sculptures. They have been fabricated from Murano glass and impressed by these discovered among the many arid panorama of Calabria, a area in southern Italy.
![Actress Salma Hayek poses for photographers as she waits for the start of the Bottega Veneta show in Milan. Photo: AP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/ff085044-2ed4-46bd-a39f-452653384313_6148e9ce.jpg)
The cactus, which might survive in very harsh environments, is a logo of resilience and energy for Blazy. However how did that translate into garments?
Blazy used tactile surfaces, broad shoulders, voluminous shapes and a palette dominated by the “colors of the night time” to convey what he known as a “monumentalism of the on a regular basis” – or no less than as “on a regular basis” as you will get when speaking about painstakingly made items which are extraordinarily luxurious and nearly one in every of a form.
![Pleats at Bottega Veneta autumn/winter 2024. Photo: AFP](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/02/26/3c0f3c54-d8c5-4c53-b47b-31e9be277b2f_741ac6ff.jpg)
With a view to absolutely admire Blazy’s creations, you usually should see them in motion, not hanging on a rack – fringes, pom-poms, streamers and the like have all been recurring components in his work. Two outfits, one in yellow and one in crimson, stood out specifically: they have been fabricated from accordion pleats and seemed merely beautiful because the fashions walked down the runway, making a magical visible impact.